Is milk pudding better with holes or flat?  – 04/25/2022 – Food

Is milk pudding better with holes or flat? – 04/25/2022 – Food

Wait until the family dinner is over, that lazy candy-and-coffee moment, and toss the question into the air: “Milk pudding with or without a hole?” Arguments are guaranteed until noon.

Also polarized in the dessert universe, Brazil is divided into two passionate teams that do not skimp on arguments to justify their preferences.

Fôrma de Pudim bakery partner Daniela Aliperti from the team without holes. “Pudding pierces when you beat the dough too hard to create bubbles and bake it at a high temperature, causing the egg whites to curdle too quickly. It turns into an omelette,” the baker says contemptuously.

The author of “O Livro do Pudim” (Panda Books, 88 pages, 29.90 reais) Aliperti admits that she posted both recipes, with and without, at the request of the editor. But her preference is stated by the creamy and smooth texture that she developed by adapting the preparation of French creme brulee – in the bakery, a separate pudding (85 g) costs 14 reais. “The store is ten years old, and if two people came in and asked for pudding with holes, then it was a lot.”

This contradicts what Leonardo Olim, a television producer specializing in cooking shows, who became a pastry chef in February 2022 when he launched Pudim do Olim delivery, says. Already known among friends, he based his recipe on a social media survey before professionalizing it.

“A friend who has a lot of followers asked a question and found that 80% preferred pudding with holes,” says Olim, who charges 14 reais for one candy (140g). “I’ve stopped selling a few times because the customer just loves it without it. But on the other hand, there are people who complain and ask to make more holes.”

This is not the only milk pudding controversy. There is also a team – quite a large one – that considers condensed milk as the main ingredient, in contrast to the ardent opponents of the industrial product.

Lysandra Amaral, chef at Maria Farinha Cozinha in Pinheiros, learned from her family in Cachoeira Paulista, in the Paraiba Valley, a traditional recipe that uses only whole milk, eggs and sugar. A piece costs 17 reais.

“It’s a bit sweet, with a smooth texture, very light. But it only works with higher fat milk and real free-range eggs. not good”.

Condensed milk appeared late in the pudding recipe. Although it was invented in 1856, it was not until the 1960s that Nestlé invested in recreating traditional Brazilian recipes by replacing sugar with the product. According to research firm Euromonitor, this strategy has worked so well that Brazil has become the world’s largest consumer market.

Before him, milk pudding sweetened with sugar, the origin of which is also a matter of debate, predominated. It can be a Portuguese heritage adapted from an ivory pudding, as well as a Spanish flan or French caramel version.

For the sociologist Carlos Alberto Doria, it is a relative of the French creme renversée, the recipe that appears in Le Guide Culinaire, which Auguste Escoffier published in 1903, although he was not the father of the invention. “Escoffier reproduced the recipe from a popular French tradition,” he explains.

In Brazil, pudding has been prepared for a long time. Over a dozen recipes are given in O Cookeiro Nacional, originally published in the 19th century (Senac-SP, 496 pages, 218 reais). Milk pudding lists eggs, flour, sugar, cinnamon, lemon peel, and nutmeg as ingredients.

Detractors of condensed milk often claim that the ingredient was introduced into the recipe to simplify preparation. But the fact is that with or without milk in a can (or box) or without it, making a good milk casserole always requires a certain skill from the pastry chef.

To guarantee the smooth texture that Forma de Pudim customers appreciate, Aliperti delicately blends the ingredients using only a wire whisk to prevent bubbles from forming.

Condensed milk should be whole and egg, preferably from walking. For an even creamier texture, simply replace half of the milk with whey-free cream. Baking in a bain-marie requires a combination of very low temperature and patience.

The option without condensed milk from the Maria Farinha restaurant also takes time. Lysandra Amaral whips four whole eggs and twice as many yolks with just half a cup of sugar. Incorporated into milk, the mixture is placed in a caramel mold and baked in a water bath for three hours in a very low oven.

Olim, on the other hand, makes holes speed up the whole process. Beat in a blender so that it is well ventilated, the dough goes into the oven for a little over an hour.

Gourmets are welcome. In Forma de Pudim, vanilla essence can give way to fragrant vanilla pods, a much higher-priced 100% natural ingredient whose presence is signaled by tiny black dots mixed into the pudding.

At Maria Farinha Cozinha, milk only enters the preparation after it has been infused with kurama seeds, the same ingredient used to flavor Holy Burger pudding, which has made its dessert even more famous on social media by changing the traditional way of cooking with a hole in the middle. , the can of condensed milk itself – pudding (25 reais) arrives at the table in the bank to be dismantled in front of the buyer.

Among so many variations and inventions, only one seems to unite all the teams in a unified chorus: a milk pudding worth its salt should be served with a lot of caramel sauce. And the end of the story.


Where to find

Form for pudding. 102 R. Normandy, Maugham, www.formadepudim.com.br.

Holy burger. R. Dr. Cesario Mota Junior, 527, Vila Buarque, www.holyburger.com.br.

Maria Farina Kitchen. R. João Elias Saada, 126, Pinheiros, tel. (11) 93279-0060 www.instagram/mariafarinhasp.

Olympic pudding. www.instagram/pudimdolim.


Income


  • Milk pudding without holes

The foundation

INGREDIENTS

1 can of condensed milk.
450 ml whole milk.
1 teaspoon vanilla essence.
2 eggs.
4 gems.

PREPARATION

Mix the condensed milk with the milk and vanilla by hand. In another bowl, beat the eggs and yolks with a whisk and add to the previous mixture. Strain and save.

caramel syrup

INGREDIENTS

150 g sugar.

PREPARATION

Put the sugar in a saucepan and add enough water to make it moist. Stir, turn on the fire and cook, without stirring, until it turns into caramel. Pour the syrup into a mold and add the pudding base. Cover with aluminum foil and cook in a water bath at 150ºC for 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes, or until the center is firm.


  • Milk pudding with holes

The foundation

INGREDIENTS

1 can of condensed milk.
450 ml whole milk.
4 eggs.
1 teaspoon vanilla essence.

PREPARATION

Mix the ingredients in a blender and set aside.

caramel syrup

INGREDIENTS

150 g sugar.

PREPARATION

Repeat the previous recipe and cook in a bain-marie in a high oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the middle is set.

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